Daytrips to historic Lamphun
Wat Kukut in Lamphun
Lamphun, just 26kms from Chiang Mai, is probably the oldest inhabited city in Thailand. Legend states that this fortified settlement was founded in 660 AD, making it almost twice as old as the Lanna capital to the north and 1,122 years older than Bangkok.
Although historians question this date, and prefer the more conservative estimate of 950 AD, it is nevertheless a lasting seat of power and influence in Southeast Asia.
Lamphun was established by Buddhist monks from Lopburi during the reign of legendary Queen Chamadevi and served as the capital of the Haripunchai Kingdom. Haripunchai was the centre of Mon culture until 1281 when it was eventually conquered by King Mangrai of Lan Na.
The ashes of Queen Chamadevi are supposed to lie in the Wat of her name. Lamphun’s main morning market , in the southwest of the city, boasts a statue of the Queen where local people still make offerings.
Legend has it that King Mangrai was visited by some Mon merchants and, upon hearing about the wealth of Lamphun, decided to conquer the city, even though his councillors advised against it.
But as Lamphun proved impossible to take the city by force, the king sent a skilful merchant by name of Ai Fa to gain the confidence of reigning monarch King Yi Ba. In time, it is said, he became Chief Minister and managed to undermine the ruler’s authority. More on history.
And so in 1281, which the citizens of Lamphun disenchanted, King Mangrai defeated the Mon kingdom and added northern Thailand’s foremost city to his kingdom. Yi Ba, the last Hariphunchai king, was forced to flee south to seek refuge in Lampang. Lamphun was then incorporated into the new Lanna Kingdom and Ai Fa was appointed King. Mangrai began building his fortress of Wiang Kum Kam as the new Lanna capital.
Wat Phra That Haripunchai contains a Buddha relic
Sleepy Lamphun is today generally visited as an enjoyable and rewarding daytrip from the northern capital and boasts lotus-filled moats and among the most distinguished historical architecture in the Kingdom. Although many of the most ancient temples have fallen into disrepair, Lamphun remains a popular spot for both Thai and international tourists.
In fact, many people say that the journey from Chiang Mai to Lamphun is more enjoyable than the city itself. Travellers should avoid the gargantuan new Superhighway and instead head south along the old Chiang Mai – Lamphun road Highway 106. This route, which originally linked Chiang Mai’s namesake southern gate and Lamphun's northern Elephant Crush Gate, is lined by 30m yang trees, small farms, fruit orchards and paddy fields.
This historic road passes through the artisans’ village of Saraphi, famous for bamboo furniture and basketry. Numerous shops selling these products stand line the road with garden restaurants also interspersing the lofty foliage.
There is not a great deal remaining of Lamphun's ancient city walls, although the well-preserved moat still surrounds the Old City towards the north, west and south. The east is flanked by the slow-flowing waters of the Kuang River. Although this shallow waterway was once offered protection from invaders, now there is only a kids boating park and shady banks for fishing.
History buffs will find the well-maintained and informative provincial museum offers an insight into the layout of the city Lamphun. Within are various displays of fine bronzes, terracottas and stuccoes dating back to Mon times plus masks and carvings of figurines with the classic enigmatic grin and fierce eyes of Haripunchai art.
Directly opposite the museum on the east side of the city’s main thoroughfare of Inthayongyot Road, the splendid Wat Phra That Haripunchai. This magnificent temple was founded by King Athitayaraj of Haripunchai in 1044 and remains unequalled in northern Thailand. More on culture.
Wat Phra That Haripunchai features on the reverse of Thailand’s one satang coin. Legendary stories claim that the queen's personal quarters are enclosed within the main 46-metre high copper-covered chedi with gold umbrella at its summit. If that was truth, however, Chamadevi's quarters would not have been big enough to swing a cat!
Lamphun, surrounded by lush countryside, orchards and rice paddy, is the site of a popular longan fruit festival every August. More on northern Thailand attractions.
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