Chiang Mai to Laos – the slow boat odyssey
People often say that the journey is just as important as the destination. This is particularly true of the journey from Thailand to Laos. One of the best journeys in this region of Southeast Asia is the trip along the Mekong River from the village of Chiang Khong in northern Thailand to Luang Prabang in Laos. Described as magical, an once-in-a-lifetime experience, this trip will restore the love of travel for even the most jaded and road weary adventurer.
The best way to get to Chiang Khong is via Chiang Mai, where there is a large airport. It is best to arrive in Chiang Kong in the afternoon before you set off on the boat trip, and there are plenty of guest houses available to spend the night in as well as good restaurants serving a range of both local and western dishes. Most guest houses sell tickets for the boat trip, which include lunch on the first day. Find hostels in Northern Thailand
Once you arrive in the sleepy village of Chiang Khong you will discover that there are two ways to navigate the mighty Mekong: either a two-day journey in a long, wooden ‘slow boat’ or about eight hours by speed boat.
Although obviously the quickest option, the speed boat is noisy, uncomfortable and rather expensive. The so-named slow boat, however, takes two full days to reach the same destination. Although the idea of being cooped up on a wooden boat with a group of strangers may seem a little daunting, the stunning scenery more than makes up for any discomfort.
The next day starts early with a trip to the Thai immigration office on the banks of the river, where passports are stamped before passengers climb into an ancient wooden boat and complete the visa process on the Laos side of the river. Once this is accomplished, there is a short wait for the other slow boat passengers to arrive before all the passengers pile in together along with sacks of rice and flour or whatever else needs to be transported.
Although long, the boat is quite narrow and only about four feet high. The wooden benches that line the sides were clearly not made with foreign frames in mind and become pretty uncomfortable after a couple of hours. It is best to take a cushion with you to sit on.
As the journey begins, all eyes will turn to the stunning scenery. On both sides of the river are cliffs and dense forest, which vary in shade and tone. There are small villages scattered along the banks of the river and children play in the river, splashing each other and waving and laughing as the boats pass.
The Mekong River flows all the way through Laos and Cambodia and finally into Thailand, linking the three countries and providing a vital source of water and life for the people who live on the river banks. The water of the mighty Mekong flows slowly and the pace of life is made to match. With not a single factory, modern house or vehicle in sight, it feels as though nothing has changed here for centuries.
After travelling for 10 or 11 hours, the boat stops in the evening in the tiny village of Pakbeng. Consisting of several basic guest houses and restaurants, the village seems to serve mainly as a rest stop for weary travellers on their way through Laos. There are plenty of places to stay in the village, so take the time to look around for the room you want. Restaurants serve a wide variety of food including Thai dishes, traditional Lao food, Indian and backpacker favourites. It is best to try and get an early night after eating as Pakbeng’s electricity is shut off at 22:00.
The next day passes in much the same way as the first, although the scenery is somewhat more dramatic as the captain navigates the boat around the huge boulders that fill the river, marked by high rocky cliffs on either side.
The boat finally arrives in the picturesque town of Luang Prabang just as the sun is setting on the second day. People line the banks of the river waiting for friends and family members, joined by touts from guest houses and restaurants. Once you disembark there is just enough time to find a room before darkness falls.
Whatever delights Laos holds in store, the slow boat voyage from Thailand to Laos is a great way to start the journey.
