The magic of Maya Bay
Of all the postcard perfect pictures of Thailand Maya Bay is the one that makes it on to the brochures the most. Its talcum-white sand with aqua coloured water is surrounded by sheer karst cliffs, almost making it an enclosed lagoon.
Not surprisingly it took a starring role in the blockbuster movie The Beach. Photograph it from the right angle and you can create the illusion that this near perfect beach and bay is completely cut off from the rest of the world for your own private secluded playground. This indeed was the impression movie goers got through the eyes of Richard, the character played by Leonardo di Caprio in the fictional novel of a hippie community living there undisturbed.
Unfortunately for us mere tourists you get to enter the bay from the Andaman sea, with the sinking realisation that another dozen boatload of visitors had the same idea as you – hoping for a private experience. Indeed Maya Bay is firmly on the Phi Phi Island’s day tour itinerary.
All the same this should not discourage those who are visiting Krabi or Phuket from visiting these gorgeous islands, and Phi Phi Ley, on which Maya Bay is located, is surely one of the most impressionable experiences one can have in Thailand.
Maya Bay is one of several in the region that boasts stunning limestone cliffs hanging over its waters, except this one is the only bay which is almost formed into a lagoon as well as having a beach to land on. And the beach itself is pure eye candy that has all visitors reaching for their cameras.
There’s about 200m of sand, with a swimming area marked out in the centre, and it provides calm clear waters which are ideal for cooling off in the hot Southern weather. Due to tide restrictions on the tours’ activities, most boats arrive here about the same time, and it can get somewhat crowded. If you really want the place to yourself then try staying on Phi Phi Don overnight and chartering a longtail boat with a few others to get here early or late.
No one is allowed to stay overnight on the small bit of inhabitable land, except the park rangers. You can wander inland through a pretty nature trail to toilets. Continue on and you come to a small tidal lagoon that empties via a blow hole to a lagoon at the rear of the island. Tours generally stop in that lagoon for snorkelling.
A small stall sells snacks and refreshments, otherwise there are no other amenities at Maya Bay. Don’t expect to have the whole beach to yourself, sometimes it can be quiet, other times you might want to leave as soon as you’ve taken the gorgeous pictures. Some of the other beaches offered on the tours’ intineraries are less crowded. All the same it’s fun to watch everyone around you marvelling at the sheer beauty.
There’s more to Phi Phi Ley too. Around the back of the island are two more lagoons, one similar to Maya Bay but elongated and without any beach of landing points. This needs to be entered at the right time of day and often you’re let off the boat to swim among the tropical fish in this clear shallow pale blue water.
Around the corner are caves where they harvest the famous birds’ nests for the soup so sought after as a delicacy among Asian diners. A century ago when piracy was rampant here, local fisherman used to hide out in these caves.
Phi Phi Ley is about 20 minutes ride from Phi Phi Don by speed boat, and about 45 minutes directly from Phuket. There are several more islands in the archipelago that are visited as part of the day tour. Staying on Phi Phi Don is realistic for all budgets although pre booking is essential in the high season. It’s a bit more relaxed than Phuket but by no means paradise. Most visitors enjoy the islands best on a day trip that takes in all the highlights conveniently.
